Monday, November 30

Beacon, Tokyo

Beacon is an urban steakhouse.

And what makes Beacon an urban steakhouse as opposed er, an it’s-ok-to-drip-gravy-on-my-shirt steakhouse?

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Well, for starters, the sharp and swanky décor. During the week, it’s probably a fantastic place to host business associates or celebrate a new deal but on the weekends, Thomas Pink shirts give way to blush-pink Chanels. Hmm, jeans are probably doable for lunch but provided they have previously appeared on Refinery29 or NyMag’s Cut blog.

But like any popular steakhouse, walking in without a reservation is a bad bad idea – yup, almost as bad as dripping gravy all over your Thomas Pink.

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As soon as our orders were whisked away, rustic slices of warm bread made their way to our table. You can tell from the lack of airholes that it was very compact and dense slice. Initially I didn’t want to fill myself up but the bread was incredibly soft so it was gone before one could spell c-a-r-b-o-h-y-d-r-a-t-e-s.

The menu sounded fantastic and thankfully there was a 3-course Saturday lunch menu which really helped with indecisions.

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We started off with smoked Norway salmon and crusty zucchini fritters with a slick of dill mayo.

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For my main course, we went for the Grilled Wagyu sirloin steak for an additional 2000 yen. If the man-equivalent of a US Prime Black Angus Beef is an investment banker who puts in 20-hour-a-day, 6-day weeks, the man-equivalent of the Wagyu would be a dude-socialite who considers 18 holes at the golf course a hard day at work. It was awesome - well-grilled medium rare with that distinguishable fat squash in every bite.

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For desserts, it was Return to the Classics with a dense Lemon mascarpone cheese cake with ginger snap crust. Lemon, cheese and ginger snap – things I like in a dessert.

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But what made me loopy was Beacon's espresso creme brulee. Creme de la creme of all creme brulee desserts. The torched brittle surface cracked to reveal a luscious almost-molten inside that I can still remember till THIS day (yes, despite my goldfish memory!). To top it off, Beacon's espresso gelato was one heckofa smooth criminal.

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Last meal in Tokyo - saddness.

Beacon
Shibuya 1-2-5, Omotesando
Tokyo
Tel: 6418 0077

Saturday, November 28

Farmer's Market, Tokyo

Before lunch at Beacon's, we strolled around the Shibuya / Omotesando area and stumbled upon this Farmer's Market at the United Nations University. How lucky of us huh?

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Though it wasn't a huge affair, I loved walking through it. Arh, I'm such a sucker for farmers' markets.

Thursday, November 26

Tonchin, Tokyo

We had the simple street ramen for last dinner in Tokyo.

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Tonchin is a popular chain but we didn't have to wait long as it was only 6pm and bar-counter seats weren't exactly linger-friendly. It's interesting to note that the XL, L and M sizes cost the same.

Actually, simple is not exactly the word I would use to describe Tonchin's ramen.

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There's nothing meek about Tonchin's broth. The miso-pork broth was creamy, hearty and almost opaque. The noodles were thick-ish and when the guy prepared our ramen, he gave a swift swat before transferring it into the bowl. Did that make the noodles bouncier or chewier? I don't know but it sure made for a good theatrical performace. The char siew was heart-achingly tender, unlike anything I ever had in Singapore.

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Tonchin
1-11-10 Shinjuku
Tel: 03-3207-5887
Tokyo
And various outlets

Tuesday, November 24

Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki, Tokyo

I know what you must be thinking, how many pastries can one person in a week?!

Too many, I admit. And this will thankfully be the last post on pastries. In Tokyo, at least.

The one patisserie that I wanted to try out was Pastisserie at Takashimaya Times Square. Whenever I descended into the food basement (which was pretty darn often), I would be greeted by perfectly-coiffed pastries sitting pretty in their glass cases. But until recently, I've never approached the glass cases with enough stomach room and the bar counter seats were usually fully occupied.

One morning – still full from last night’s dinner at Mizutani – we wandered into Takashimaya Times Square and scored ourselves a couple of pastries and seats. Turns out the Pastisserie showcases several well-known patissiers on a rotation basis. There were at least six patissiers and forty over pastries to choose from and we picked two by Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki.

Why hello, my pretties.

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Turns out the Patisserie showcases several well-known pastissiers on a rotation basis. Though there were at least six patissiers and forty over pastries to choose from, we picked two by Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki.

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More than a shell, the sable-like tart bottom provided a buttery base for fruit confiture, custard and mixed berried.

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The mixed berries custard tart. The tart shell reminded me of a butter sable and had been smeared with some fruit confiture. The custard within was not Toshi Yoroshiku-light but I couldn't complain.

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Walnut bits and coffee mousse, covered in rich chocolate glaze, accented with disturbingly-good walnut toffee brittle and a coffee macaron. Gorgeous.

Simple but strong flavours and exquisite technique, they were truly timeless desserts.

Patisserie Takashimaya
Takashimaya Times Square
5-24-2 Sendagaya
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Sunday, November 22

Tsukiji Market, Tokyo

This was my second trip to Tsukiji.

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We had breakfast at Sushi Bun. The 150 year old sushi bar is also known as "No. 3," after Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi. The queue was just as long though and we waited for about 30 minutes.

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There are two sushi omakase sets available. At first, I ordered a sashimi set but it wasn’t enough. So I order an additional uni and otoro sushi. Learn from my mistakes – stick with sushi, folks! They also serve the sushi on leaves (instead of a wooden board). I have no idea how if that truly heightens the sushi experience but it made me feel good.

The sushi and sashimi were incredibly fresh – a bonus from having the largest wholesale fish market at your backyard. You know it’s going to be a good day when you have sushi for breakfast at Tsukiji. I can just feeeeel it in my bones.

If I ever visit Tsukiji, I will try one of the less famous sushi joints (ok, I admit I’ve already spotted one) and see if there is a difference.

Sushi Bun
5-2-1 #8 Tsukiji-Shijo
Tokyo
Tel: 3541-3860

Friday, November 20

Sushi Mizutani, Tokyo

If you have never had sushi in your life or are just growing out of an allergy towards raw fish and vinegared rice, Sushi Mizutani is probably not a good place to start learning about sushi.

It could kill you. Do you in for the rest of your life. Re-commit yourself to sushi abstinence till you finally save up enough pennies for this three Michelin Star sushi joint.

Like the decor and chef, the sushi here is deceivingly unassuming and fiercely traditional. Don't count on any ikura-uni-otoro- layered-and-aburied fancy footwork. Each identical piece is moulded by the Chef Hachiro Mizutani who has more than four decades worth of experience. Before it is served, a noted brushstroke of shoyu glazes the sushi.

Then, Pop! A single mouthful and it is gone.

What we had:
Engawa
Iwashi
Maguro
Chutoro
Otoro
Scallop
Mirugai
Akagai
Awabi
Sayuri
Saba
Anago
Ika
Uni
Tamago - A Sushi Mizutani signature with almost molten insides. Reminded me of a honey castella cake

The epitome of restrained elegance, the ten-seater hides away at the basement of Seiwa Building. Hardly any English is spoken or written, adding to the thrill of omakase. I think I had difficulty breathing normally in there, worried that my quick breathing would disrupt the controlled serenity of the place.

Sushi Mizutani
Ginza Seiwa Silver Building
B1 8-2-10 Ginza
Tokyo
Tel: 03-3573-5258

Wednesday, November 18

Breizh Café Crêperie, Tokyo

We struck burnished-gold with lunch at Breizh Café Crêperie Don’t you just love their French countryside décor? And the waiteresses were clad in chic-as-hell Breton sailor’s uniform that everyone wants this season.

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Related to the popular Creperie Le Bretagne, Breizh Café Crêperie specializes in buckwheat crep-, oh excusez moi, galettes.

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In anticiaption of our heavy (on the gut and pocket) dinner later on, we went for the most basic set that came with a salad, galette and coffee / tea. The salad was lightly-dressed with a vinaigrette dressing. Simple but pleasantly so.

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We had one the spinach, egg and gruyere cheese, and another with mushrooms, ham and gruyere cheese.

I love spinach. Makes me feel really healthy ordering it, as if I’m repenting for my multitude of sugar-laden sins. Big grin.

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The other galette was of course lovely too. Both galettes had spent enough time on the pan, and earned their deserving crispness and brown-butter façade.

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If it were 3-5 degrees warmer, I would have loved to seat outside. They have scarves for everybody but I would need a warmer for my crepes. Haha. Located on the 13th floor of Takashimaya Times Square, I sure felt on top of the world with our delicious galettes.

Breizh Café Crêperie
At various locations

Monday, November 16

Toshi Yoroizuka & Sadaharu Aoki, Tokyo

It had to be done.

Somebody had to take these pretty cakes, plunge his fork in and declare their sacred delicateness fit for an afternoon splurge.

But before the carnage...

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At a very apt location, outside the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT at Tokyo Midtown, we tucked into edible works - handcrafted pastries from Toshi Yoroizuka & Sadaharu Aoki. The weather looks fantastic but it was actually so cold that day.

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At 2:45pm, I was most pleased to see a lack of queue outside Toshi Yoroizuka but before breaking into my victory dance, the guy manning the front (door biatch?) told me to leave my name down and return at 5:15pm for a seat inside the patisserie.

5 – friggin – 15.

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Because I don’t have a habit of practicing delayed gratification, especially when the lovelies are IN FRONT OF ME, we picked up three slices and moved onto Sadaharu Aoki.

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Toshi Yoroizuka's chocolate mousse, tarte tartin and choux pistachio were feverishly exquisite. Between the three, my favourite was …. Wait, I can’t do that. Don’t make me choose - that would be like picking favourites among my kids.

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On my last trip to Tokyo, I loved Sadaharu's genmaicha eclair and had rather high hopes for his cakes. This time round, we picked up his Mille Feuille and Mont D’or.

The Mille Feuille was easy to love. Impossible to eat with a fork without spattering precious crumbs all over, we ate the Mille Feuille with our hands - and don’t we all know the power of eating something with our hands.

However, the Mont D’or’s flavours were mish-mashed and not as clear cut as the Mille Feuille or any of Yoroizuka's. The pastries were good but with Toshi Yoroizuka in the picture, Sadaharu's slices were "not as", as in not as delicate, not as harmonious and not as gratifying.

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When I came home on Saturday, my younger sister kindly informed me, your face looks rounder.

Though I knew these five pastries had something to do with that, I replied, it’s due to a lack of sleep.

Saturday, November 14

Harbs, Tokyo

It was the day we nearly went ka-put with cake. Before our five pastries at Tokyo Midtown, we had HARBS’ cakes at Roppongi Hills.

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HARBS specializes in seasonal fruit cakes, pies and tarts though I do remember seeing a couple of chocolate offerings that would appease cocoa-locomos. They were massive compared to the delicate treats of Toshi Yoroizuka and Sadaharu Aoki. But while both were huge in size, they were light in texture and taste.

But anyway, tis’ the season to have marron (chestnuts) in Japan and HARBS boasted marron bounty such as marron pie, marron tart, marron glace cake, marron cake etc.

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We had their marron crepe cake. Marron mille crepe with ethereal crepes layered with diced marron, praline and mixed cream. I never understood the fuss about chestnuts till I stepped foot in Japan. And now, I’m just marron crazy. Did you know that their McD’s has a Maroon McFlurry to commemorate the season?

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The poire pie was made up of pear compote, custard cream and a flaky puff pastry shell. This seemed normal enough (I'm beginning to take feather-light custard cream for granted) until I hit the fragrant white sesame-infused pastry tart shell.

HARBS
At various locations

Thursday, November 12

Le Remois, Tokyo

Le Remois was another restaurant that reminded of the beauty of doing something random.

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After our trip to the Imerial Palace, we decided to have lunch at Marunochi. There were many restaurants for various crowds and budget - high roller bankers, clique-kish office ladies, weary tourists etc.

Le Remois was such a serendipitous find as it provided a casual non-Japanese option for the both of us. For lunch, there were only two set lunches available - 1500yen for main course and coffee / tea; 1800yen for soup / salad, main course, dessert and coffee / tea - and we ordered one of each.

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Warm bread, served with extra virgin olive oil (and butter at an additional carge of 200yen).

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For starters, there was a choice of caesear salad (tas-tee) or pumpkin potato soup.

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For main course, there was a choice between the chicken confit, grilled fish and roasted pork chop. The pork chop was incredible - pink and flavourful. It was one of the rare moments I regretted not ordering the pork.

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My chicken confit with mushroom risotto was pretty good too. The mushroom risotto was just a little moooshy but still lovely.

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We got marron ice cream for dessert, which I thought tasted liked caramel.

This was such a feel-good meal. I left feeling as if I had that rosemary sprig tucked behind my ear.

Le Remois
5F Shin-Marunouchi Building
1-5-1 Marunouchi
Chiyoda-ku
Tel: 03-5224-8771

Wednesday, November 11

Daikokuya, Asakusa

The weakest link in our Tokyo trip was Daikokuya at Asakusa.

The snaking queue at the main Daikokuya was replaced with a take-a-number system at their other branch, which was just a short ten metres away. Luckily at 12:30pm, we only waited for a decent half an hour.

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At Daikokouya, the menu is simple since most people came for the black tempura. There are only so many ways one can jazz up the usual deep-fried tempura but coming up with a black version certainly piqued many people's interest.

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Black tempura – much ado about nothing?

It's tough to wholly appreciate the beauty of anything deep-fried when it has been sordidly dunked in black soya suace. There was no way the armour-like tempura coating could have retained any of that sought-after crispness.

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The white (or usual) tempura was slightly crunchier than the black version but it hardly called for a celebration. Sure, the prawns were gratifyingly large but it couldn't save the lackluster clumsy batter.

What really pulled the trigger was both tempuras were served close to room temperature which made the armour-like coating. It's funny how tempura is one of the hardest things to screw up as they are usually pretty decent even at places like conveyor belt sushi joints.

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The drop egg drop was delicious though. Thicker than usual, the consistency was that of a sweet and sour soup.

It was a sad day for tempura indeed.

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And because it was such an unfulfilling meal, I snacked my way through Asakusa

Deep-fried pumpkin agemanju. Served hot with loads of pumpkin mash equals delicious.

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Grilled Hokkiado corn brushed with light soya.

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Chestnut (not pictured) and red bean taiyaki.

Daikokuya
1-38-10 Asakusa
Tokyo